Diamond Waffle Hot Pad Free Pattern
Diamond Waffle Hot Pad – Free Pattern
Learn how to crochet the beautiful diamond waffle stitch while making something useful for your kitchen.
These Diamond Waffle Hot Pads are the perfect gift for someone who loves handmade items. Pair them with wooden utensils and homemade spices to create a beautiful gift set.
Below you will find the patterns for the single-color version as well as the one for the 2 color version where I show you where to change colors. The trellis pattern made by the front post stitches is more evident when crocheted in 2 colors, but even the ones made in one color look gorgeous.
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Video Tutorial
I used the diamond waffle pattern to create these hot pads. Subscribe to Crafting Happiness YouTube Channel to save the video if you want to create bigger projects with this stitch.
How To Crochet The Diamond Waffle Stitch
Pattern Notes
Level
- intermediate
Project Size/ Gauge
- 22cm by 22cm
- 7sts = 5cm in dc stitches
Pattern Characteristics
- hot pads
- household items
Yarn Used
- Deramores Studio Aran
- Click here for YARN ALTERNATIVES
Supplies
- gardenia (for the single color one)
- cyan (A) & juniper (B) (for the two-color one)
- 5mm crochet hook
- sewing needle with an eye big enough to fit your yarn
Abbreviations
Pattern written in US terms using Craft Yarn Council abbreviations.
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sk – skip
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- fptr – front post treble
- fptr2tog – fptr 2 together
Diamond Waffle Hot Pads Crochet Pattern
- the detailed explanation with step-by-step photos for the fptr and fptr2tog can be found in the Diamond Waffle Pattern Tutorial in the special stitches section.
- ch3 at the beginning of the row counts as a dc
- ch1 at the end of the row does not count as a stitch
- the stitches contained within the ** is the repeat section
- the number at the end of each row is the number of stitches you should have
Single Color Version
Starting Chain: ch27
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc next 25ch, turn = 26
Row 2: ch3, dc next 25ch, ch1, turn = 26
Row 3: Fptr around the 3rd sc from row 1, sk1 on row 3, sc in next 3sts, *fptr2tog (1st incomplete fptr made around the same sc post from row 1 you already worked in, 2nd incomplete fptr made around the sc post 3 stitches apart), sk1 on row 3, sc in next 3 stitches*, repeat from * until you have 2 stitches left in the row, fptr around the last sc post worked from row 1, sk1 on row 3, sc, turn = 26
Row 4: ch3, dc next 25ch, ch1, turn = 26
Row 5: sc in next 2sts, *fptr2tog (1st incomplete fptr made around fptr 2 rows below, 2nd incomplete fptr made around the next fptr stitches 2 rows below), sk1 on row 3, sc in next 3 stitches*, repeat from * until the end of the row, turn = 26
Row 6: ch3, dc next 25ch, ch1, turn = 26
Row 7: Fptr around the posts of the fptr stitches from row 5, sk1 on row 7, sc in next 3sts, *fptr2tog (1st incomplete fptr made around the previous fptr posts you already worked in from row 5, 2nd incomplete fptr made around the next fptr posts from row 5), sk1 on row 7, sc in next 3 stitches*, repeat from * until you have 2 stitches left in the row, fptr around the previous fptr posts from row 5, sk1 on row 7, sc, turn = 26
Repeat rows 4, 5, 6 & 7 until the hot pad is 19.5cm tall (in my case 3 more repeats), don’t fasten off.
Single Crochet Border
Continue from the corner where you finished your last row going, down the side.
Round 1: *1sc in the sc row, 2sc around the dc row*, repeat until you reach the next corner, 3sc in the corner, sc in each st across the bottom of the piece until you reach the next corner, 3sc in the corner, *1sc in the sc row, 2sc in the dc row*, repeat until you reach the next corner, 3sc in that corner, sc in each st along the top part of the piece until you reach the corner, 3sc in that corner, sl st in the first sc you made in this round, ch1, don’t turn
Round 2: *sc in each st along the side until you reach the corner st (the 2nd sc of the 3sc you previously made in the corner), 3sc in the corner st*, repeat on each side of the piece (4 times in total), sl st in the first sc you made in this round, ch8, sl st in the next st, fasten off, weave in the ends.
Two-Color Version
Changing colors in the 2 color version is not always done at the beginning of the row, but a few stitches in the row right when you start making the front post treble stitches.
When you do it this way, only the trellis pattern on top will be in a different color and it will look a lot better than making the entire row in a different color.
Pay attention to the color changes and don’t miss out on the changes made inside the rows, I wrote them in capital letters for you.
I cut the yarn at every color change and weaved in the ends before crocheting the border.
Start with color A
Starting Chain: ch27
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc next 25ch, turn = 26
Row 2: ch3, dc next 25ch, ch1, turn = 26
Change to color B
Row 3: Fptr around the 3rd sc from row 1, sk1 on row 3, sc in next 3sts, *fptr2tog (1st incomplete fptr made around the same sc post from row 1 you already worked in, 2nd incomplete fptr made around the sc post 3 stitches apart), sk1 on row 3, sc in next 3 stitches*, repeat from * until you have 2 stitches left in the row, fptr around the last sc post worked from row 1, sk1 on row 3, CHANGE TO COLOR A, sc, turn = 26
Continue with color A
Row 4: ch3, dc next 25ch, ch1, turn = 26
Row 5: sc in next 2sts, CHANGE TO COLOR B, *fptr2tog (1st incomplete fptr made around fptr 2 rows below, 2nd incomplete fptr made around the next fptr stitches 2 rows below), sk1 on row 3, sc in next 3 stitches*, repeat from * until the end of the row, turn = 26
Change to color A
Row 6: ch3, dc next 25ch, ch1, turn = 26
Change to color B
Row 7: Fptr around the posts of the fptr stitches from row 5, sk1 on row 7, sc in next 3sts, *fptr2tog (1st incomplete fptr made around the previous fptr posts you already worked in from row 5, 2nd incomplete fptr made around the next fptr posts from row 5), sk1 on row 7, sc in next 3 stitches*, repeat from * until you have 2 stitches left in the row, fptr around the previous fptr posts from row 5, sk1 on row 7, CHANGE TO COLOR A, sc, turn = 26
Repeat rows 4, 5, 6 & 7 until the hot pad is 19.5cm tall (in my case 3 more repeats), you will end the square in color B, fasten off, and weave in the ends.
Single Crochet Border
Place the crocheted square with the right side facing you (the front post stitches on top). Join color A on the left side corner of the piece with a slip knot (the last sc).
Round 1: *1sc in the sc row, 2sc around the dc row*, repeat until you reach the next corner, 3sc in the corner, sc in each st across the bottom of the piece until you reach the next corner, 3sc in the corner, *1sc in the sc row, 2sc in the dc row*, repeat until you reach the next corner, 3sc in that corner, sc in each st along the top part of the piece until you reach the corner, 3sc in that corner, sl st in the first sc you made in this round, ch1, don’t turn
Round 2: *sc in each st along the side until you reach the corner st (the 2nd sc of the 3sc you previously made in the corner), 3sc in the corner st*, repeat on each side of the piece (4 times in total), sl st in the first sc you made in this round, ch8, sl st in the next st, fasten off, weave in the ends.
Enjoy your newly-made diamond waffle hot pad. If you found this pattern tutorial helpful, please share and Pin it! Follow me on Pinterest here.
Tag me @craftinghappinesscrochet with your creations.
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Happy Crocheting!