Tartan Plaid Shawl Free Crochet Pattern

Fashionable Tartan Plaid Shawl – A Free Crochet Pattern

I created this tartan plaid shawl for my mother in law as a Christmas present a few months ago. She is a fashionable, well-dressed lady who likes quality garments, so I wanted to make her a shawl that goes with her wardrobe.

I chose the tartan plaid pattern because it’s a timeless classic that never goes out of fashion, and with the right color scheme, it will look expensive and unique.

And now, I am sharing the pattern with you all, free for anyone who wants to make one. I can’t wait to see what color scheme you will use!

UPDATE! I since created a blue version of this shawl which is narrower, perfect for men, you can find the written pattern HERE. I also made the video tutorial for this pattern, scroll down to the Video Resources section for the links to the full tutorial in 3 parts.

Before we continue, please note that this post might contain affiliate links and I will earn a small percentage should you choose to purchase something, but it will be at no cost to you.
You can read the disclosure policy here.

About The Tartan Plaid Shawl

The tartan plaid shawl is easier to make than it looks. Easy double crochet rows combined with surface crochet create a beautiful and classic plaid pattern that you can make in any color scheme you like.

Crochet Level

Beginner

This pattern is suitable for beginner crocheters who are familiar with reading a pattern and know the basic stitches.

Supplies I used

• 2 x 100g balls of Deramores Studio DK in oatmeal
• 1 x 100g ball of Deramores Studio DK in black
• 1 x 100g ball of Deramores Studio DK in ruby
• crochet hook size 4.5mm
• tapestry needle & scissors
• blocking board or interlocking foam mats

Size

Using the yarn weight and hook size suggested in this pattern will create a tartan plaid shawl that is 40cm wide. Make it as long as you like, mine was 1.7m long.

Your size might differ based on the type of yarn that you’ll use and your personal crochet tension.

Gauge

Gauge is not very important in this pattern, but for your reference, a 10cm by 10cm area contains 7 rows by 14 stitches.

The Stitches

Pattern written in US terms using Craft Yarn Council abbreviations.

Most basic stitches below have a video that shows you how to crochet them. Follow the blue link next to them for each individual video.

Special Stitches

Surface Crochet – Surface crochet is a technique used to decorate the surface of previously crocheted work.

Tension control is very important when it comes to surface crochet. If your tension is too tight, the shawl will pucker and if it’s too loose, it will look sloppy.

The working yarn will remain on the underside of your work at all times.

Video Resources

For those who learn better by watching videos, I have created a tutorial on how to crochet the plaid scarf for beginners, it is the blue version of this pattern, but the pattern applies to the brown shawl as well. You can find the playlist on Crafting Happiness YouTube Channel.

Just like the written pattern, I have decided to split the video tutorial into 3 parts, below you will find the links to each video.

• How To Crochet A Scarf Base For Beginners
• How To Surface Crochet The Vertical Lines For The Scarf
• How To Make Fringes For Your Scarf

Make sure to SUBSCRIBE so you can easily access the videos.  

Tartan Plaid Shawl – The Pattern

I split this pattern into three parts:

• the shawl base
• the vertical stripes
• the fringes

The Shawl Base

Chaining 3 at the beginning of the row counts as a double crochet stitch.

With oatmeal yarn, ch54

Row 1: dc in 5th ch, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, turn

Rows 2 – 4: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, turn

With black

Row 5: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, turn

With oatmeal

Row 6: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, ch1, turn

With black

Row 7: 2sc, ch1, sk1, sc, ch1, sk1, sc, ch1, sk1, *4sc, ch1, sk1, 4sc, ch1, sk1, sc, ch1, sk1, sc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2sc, turn

With oatmeal

Row 8: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, turn

With black

Row 9: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, turn

With oatmeal

Rows 10 – 13: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, turn

With ruby

Row 14: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, turn

With oatmeal

Rows 15 – 18: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, turn

With black

Row 19: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, turn

With oatmeal

Row 20: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, ch1, turn

With black

Row 21: 2sc, ch1, sk1, sc, ch1, sk1, sc, ch1, sk1, *4sc, ch1, sk1, 4sc, ch1, sk1, sc, ch1, sk1, sc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2sc, turn

With oatmeal

Row 22: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, turn

With black

Row 23: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, turn

With oatmeal

Rows 24 – 27: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1 *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, turn

With black

Row 19: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, turn

With oatmeal

Row 20: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, ch1, turn

With black

Row 21: 2sc, ch1, sk1, sc, ch1, sk1, sc, ch1, sk1, *4sc, ch1, sk1, 4sc, ch1, sk1, sc, ch1, sk1, sc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2sc, turn

With oatmeal

Row 22: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, turn

With black

Row 23: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, turn

With oatmeal

Rows 24 – 27: ch3, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1 *4dc, ch1, sk1, 4dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1, dc, ch1, sk1* x 3, 2dc, turn

Repeat rows 14 – 27 until you have the desired lenght. Weave in all the ends before continue with the vertical stripes.

The Vertical Stripes

The vertical stripes are made using the surface crochet technique by making surface slip stitches in the spaces created by the pattern.

TIP: Place a heavy object (a book or something similar) on the shawl to help you keep it straight while you work on your vertical lines. This way, you can pull the shawl straight and make your surface slip stitches with the right tension. The working yarn will always be at the back of your work.

Step 1: To surface slip stitch, start by making a loose slip knot, then take it off the hook.

Place the scarf base with the right side up (both sides are similar, just choose a side to be the right side) and insert your hook into the first chain space, then place the slip knot back on the hook.

Step 2: Pull the slip knot through to the top, insert your hook into the next chain space, yarn over and pull a loop through the chain space and through the slip knot on your hook. Pay attention to the yarn tension and pull a loop long enough.

Step 3: Repeat Step 2 by inserting the hook into the following chain space, pulling up a loop through to the top of the work and through the loop on the hook until you reach the other end of the shawl base.

The color pattern used to create the tartan plaid effect is as follows (from left to right)

• 3 black lines
• 1 red line
• 3 black lines
• 1 red line
• 3 black lines
• 1 red line
• 3 black lines

Before you continue with the fringes, block your shawl on a blocking board or interlocking foam boards.

The Fringes

The fringes are made in the same color as the vertical lines. The spaces between the vertical lines are filled with oatmeal fringes.

To make a fringe, cut strings of yarn 50cm in length.

Hold 2 strings of yarn together and fold them in half.

Insert the hook into the first stitch at the edge of the shawl and then into the loop created by the two strings folded in half.

Pull the loop through the stitch then remove the hook and pull all the ends through the loop.

Pull the ends to tighten the loop. Your fringe is complete.

The color pattern used to create the fringes (from left to right) is:

• 2 oatmeal
• 3 black
• 4 oatmeal
• 1 ruby
• 4 oatmeal
• 3 black
• 4 oatmeal
• 1 ruby
• 4 oatmeal
• 3 black
• 4 oatmeal
• 1 ruby
• 4 oatmeal
• 3 black
• 2 oatmeal

And this is how the completed shawl will look like. If you found this tutorial helpful, please share and Pin! Follow me on Pinterest HERE

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If you found this tutorial helpful, please share and Pin! Follow me on Pinterest HERE

Happy Crocheting!

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