Today I am sharing with you this cute and easy pattern for the spring bunny square. Unlike my premium patterns, this will be permanently free to use whenever you like. It’s my Easter gift to you all.
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Once you’re done with that, lets go back to the spring bunny square pattern!
In this post you will find an illustrated tutorial and a video for those who learn better from watching how the pattern is created.
With Easter around the corner, I wanted to create a bunny square that is simple, but modern, and this is why I chose not to put a face on the bunny.
I used cheerful and warm pastel colors for this pattern:
- pink for girls
- blue for boys
- green for an unisex, gender neutral space
The border for this bunny square was designed this way so you can join them as you go (JAYGO) and save you the hassle of having lots of ends to weave in.
I have previously written an illustrated tutorial on JAYGO method on hexagons that you can use as reference, the technique is basically the same for the squares.
If you don’t want to join as you go your squares, then change the last row to a single crochet row with (2sc, ch2, 2sc) in the corners.
Before we continue, please note that this post contains affiliate links, I will earn a small percentage should you choose to purchase something, but it will be at no cost to you.
You can read the disclosure policy here.
Lets get started!
Written in US terms
- magic ring
- ch (chain)
- sk (skip)
- sl st (slip stitch)
- sl st 3lo (slip stitch 3rd loop only)
- sc (single crochet)
- hdc (half double crochet)
- hdc 3lo (half double crochet 3rd loop only)
- dc (double crochet)
- dc 3lo (double crochet 3rd loop only)
- co1 (corner 1)
- co1 3lo (corner 1 in 3rd loop only)
- co2 (corner 2)
Half Double Crochet / Double Crochet in Third Loop Only (hdc 3lo / dc 3lo)
If you didn’t know already, there is a 3rd loop behind the main loops of each stitch.
The main loops of the stitch are the front loop and back loop and they create the horizontal V look of the stitch.
When you yarn over (yo) before inserting the hook in the next stitch creates a third loop.
When you crochet in the third loop, you are pushing the top V forward (towards you), and this creates a knit effect to your work.
To half double crochet / double crochet in the 3rd loop only, yarn over (2 loops on hook), push the top 2 loops (the horizontal loop) forward (towards you) and insert your hook from top to bottom in the loop behind, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook) and continue making the stitch as usual.
Corner 1 (co1) – (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in the ch2 space of the corner
Corner 1 in 3rd Loop Only (co1 3lo) – (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in the 3rd loop of the chain (see above for the explanation on how to crochet in the 3rd loop only)
Corner 2 (co2) – (3sc, ch3, 3sc) in the chain space of the corner
Ear Pattern (ear) – ch13, sl st in the first ch creating a loop
- Marriner Yarn DK (light worsted yarn) in
- white (white)
- blue (turquoise)
- green (apple)
- pink (fondant)
- light pink (pink)
Unfortunately MarrinerYarns is only found in the UK, so for my international customers, I can recommend a similar yarn, Red Heart Yarn , which comes is a multitude of colors and weights, just as affordable and easy to work with as Marriner Yarns.
- 4mm crochet hook
- darning needle for weaving in the ends
I get most of my crochet supplies from Amazon, it’s fast and easy and I find everything I need in one place.
Using the recommended hook size and yarn weight, you will create a bunny square size
Work in the round, without turning.
The number at he end is the number of stitches (including the chains made in the corners) you should have on that round.
With white yarn, create a magic ring.
Round 1: ch3 (counts as a dc), 11dc in the magic ring, sl st on top of the ch3, close the ring by pulling tight the tail
Round 2: ch3 (counts as a dc), 2dc in next stitch, ch13,
sl st in the stitch where you started the chain forming the first ear,
2dc in the next stitch, ch13,
sl st in the stitch where you started the chain forming the second ear,
2dc in each next 9 stitches, dc in the last stitch next to the ch3, sl st at top of ch3, fasten off and weave in the ends
The following round is crocheted in 3rd loop only (3lo).
Join the pink, blue or green yarn with a sl st in the 3rd loop of the stitch between the ears.
Round 3: hdc 3lo in the same loop as the sl st, 2 hdc 3lo, co1 3lo, *5 hdc 3blo, co1 3lo* x 3, 2 hdc 3lo, sl st in the first stitch of the round
Round 4: ch3, 4dc, co1, *9dc, co1* x 3, 4dc, sl st on top of the ch3
Round 5: ch3, 6dc, co1, *13dc, co1* x 3, 6dc, sl st on top of ch3, fasten off and weave in the ends.
With light pink
Round 6: sl st between the 1st and 2nd dc posts after any corner (counts as a sc), *ch4, sk2, sc in next stitch* x 4, ch4, sk2, sc in the space between last two dc posts before the corner, co2,
[sc in the space between 1st & 2nd dc posts, *ch4, sk2, sc in next stitch* x 4, ch4, sk2, sc in the space between last two dc posts before the corner, co2], repeat  3 times,
sl st in first stitch, fasten off and weave in ends.
For those who learn better from watching videos, I’ve made a video tutorial to show you how to crochet the block stitch and how to carry the yarn over to the next row. Follow my Youtube Channel for more free tutorials like this one.
Looking for other granny squares?
Browse the entire granny squares library HERE.
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